I have a confession to make: for as long as I can remember I’ve been a Canary Islands snob. Despite never having been before, I assumed that the Canaries offered little more than average-looking beaches overrun with burnt, middle-aged Brits.
A sun-soaked trip to Tenerife with my partner Sarty and daughter Moira last November proved just how wrong I was. Such was its success that we knew we had to return to the Canaries, this time with the trusty grandparents in tow.
Our destination was Fuerteventura. Lesser known than some of its neighbours, the island – whose name translates to strong fortune, or strong wind, depending on what you read - is the second largest in the Spanish archipelago and is known for its abundance of long, sandy beaches and calm, clear waters.
As one translation of its name suggests, Fuerteventura is also known for being a bit windy, though this does vary throughout the year and tends to be strongest in June and July. In any case, being windy has its upsides; the island attracts surfers and windsurfers in their droves and these water sport enthusiasts have made their mark on the island. A decidedly hippy, laid-back atmosphere pervades Fuerteventura, and this is what differentiates it from its more popular neighbours.
Thanks to its desert-like, volcanic landscape, you could be forgiven for mistaking Fuerteventura for the moon. The only giveaway is the frequent sightings of the Atlantic Ocean, which on an island which is only 25 kilometres at its widest point is never too far away.
We stayed in the northern town of Corralejo, undoubtedly Fuerteventura’s most popular holiday resort. There’s no shortage of tourists here - the wide range of cuisines on offer on the main strip is proof of this - but for those after something a bit more authentic, Corralejo still has plenty to offer.
We spent our evenings wandering the charming old town with its maze of cobbled lanes, packed with bars and restaurants spilling onto the pavements. After satiating dinners of grilled meats, papas arrugadas (a Canarian speciality of mini baked potatoes served with a trio of dips) or seafood platters, we would sit out on the Calle Iglesia listening to live music with a glass of wine or a cocktail made with the local caramel liqueur.
As we were a group of six this time around, we opted to stay in a villa in a small complex just outside the centre of town. A spacious, four-bedroom, four-storey townhouse replete with marble flooring, Villa Las Tinajas was the perfect place to pitch up together for a week.
Three separate terraces meant plenty of outside space, and staying in a villa rather than a hotel allowed us plenty of socialising opportunities, including communal meals which we could rustle up according to our own, toddler-friendly timetable.
As is typical in Fuerteventura, the villa complex had a saltwater pool, which was a welcome place to refresh in the midday sun. The small but striking Playa Vista Lobos was a mere three-minute walk away, although it was only safe to swim for a couple of hours in the afternoon during high tide.
Without a doubt, the jewel in Fuerteventura’s crown is its beaches. Grandes Playas, arguably the island’s best-known beach, is an endless sandy expanse stretching out over almost four kilometres and dotted with sand dunes. A protected natural park, the beach doesn’t offer facilities such as loungers and parasols but the beauty of the setting more than makes up for it.
The first time we visited Grandes Playas we had a wild ride in the waves, yellow flags fluttering in the background. Our return visit on the last day of our holiday was more akin to a dip in a calm Caribbean Sea.
We were lucky enough that our holiday coincided with the Fuerteventura international kite festival where, for six days, the skies of Grandes Playas are adorned with hundreds of kites. On the last day of the festival, hundreds of multicoloured kites contorted into the most imaginative shapes danced in the sky. This was possibly the only thing that could elevate an already beautiful beach.
A smaller but no less impressive beach was Playa de La Concha. A sheltered shell-shaped cove on the outskirts of the town of El Cotillo on Fuerteventura’s northwest coast, La Concha’s shallow waters are perfect for children or those wanting a more relaxing dip.
El Cotillo itself is developing rapidly and it’s easy to see why. A smattering of low-key lunch spots and bars overlook the beach, and a new rooftop cocktail bar has recently opened in the centre. A nice pitstop if driving to El Cotillo from Corralejo is the market town of Lajares. Roam the Mercado Artesanal on Saturdays and grab brunch and coffee at El Arco.
There’s a big Italian influence on Fuerteventura. Italian-run businesses are common all over the island, especially restaurants. Some of the dishes we particularly enjoyed pizzas rivalling those I had eaten in Naples at Pizzeria Big Wave, homemade pasta in delectable sauces (think lobster reduction) at Bistrot del Mar and Sardinian/Spanish fusion at Bistrot 13.
But the main draw of Fuerteventura (and the Canary Islands in general) has to be year-round sunshine and warmth, even when the weather in the UK is less than desirable. And that’s why this Canaries convert will be going back next year.