It wasn’t part of the plan for our two-year-old daughter Moira to come with us on a city break to Barcelona. My partner Sarty was taking part in the Barcelona marathon in March, and we had taken that as an opportunity to have a child-free holiday together. More of a holiday for non-marathon-running me than him, but still!
When our babysitting plans fell through, after much deliberation we decided to bring Moira with us. We were about to find out just how child-friendly Spain was beyond the beach resorts!
Of course, Barcelona has no shortage of activities for children, but this guide focuses on how we managed to accommodate a toddler into our city break at the last minute.
Stay
We stayed at the Yurbban Passage Hotel & Spa. Located in the popular Born district on the fringes of the Ciutat Vella (Barcelona’s old town), this modern hotel somehow blends in effortlessly with the rest of the area’s Gothic charm.
A sleek, monochrome hotel, Yurbban Passage’s official line on children is ‘welcome, although the hotel is best suited to adults’. When we arrived, however, the staff couldn’t have been more accommodating. One of the first things the receptionist told us was that we might even be able to take Moira to the (adults-only) spa at a quieter time of the day.
Our room didn’t disappoint either. As we walked in the first thing we saw was a travel cot with a cuddly dog toy placed on the pillow.
The hotel hosts a free wine and cheese hour between 5 and 6 pm each evening, which we inevitably took advantage of, Moira in tow. At no point were we made to feel unwelcome for bringing our two-year-old to a drinks event; there was plenty of space for her to run around without judgement and there was even another child there to keep her company.
We visited in March so it wasn’t really swimming weather, but Yurbban Passage has a beautiful rooftop pool, which would be great for kids (under supervision). For the adults, there’s a bar and pretty views over the Barcelona rooftops towards the sea. Two boxes ticked at once.
Do
As expected with a toddler, we were up bright and early most days. Luckily, Barcelona’s parks and public spaces are accessible at most times of the day. By 8 am on our first morning, we were ambling past the Arc de Triomf on our way to the Parc de la Ciutadella.
This park was a great place to take a toddler. Although the playground itself was a bit tired, having wide open spaces for Moira to run in without fear of cars was a relief.
There were plenty of other things to see too: a shimmering lake, manicured gardens and - the cherry on top - a giant elephant statue. We spent a fair amount of time admiring this imposing creature, awkwardly getting in the way of many a tourist photo! There’s also a zoo attached to the park, although we didn’t visit this time.
If you want to soak up some culture whilst entertaining your toddler, head to the Placa de GaudÍ where the playground looks onto the magnificent Sagrada Familia cathedral. This was certainly an innovative way of taking in one of Barcelona’s most iconic landmarks.
Another well-placed playground is in the Plaça de Sant Miquel. The bonus of this park is that you can sip a cerveza at one of the square’s bars whilst simultaneously keeping an eye on your child as they clamber over climbing frames.
Mercat Boqueria is located just off La Rambla and is Barcelona’s central food market.
There is plenty to keep children stimulated; stalls packed with expertly constructed pyramids of rainbow smoothies are a feast for any toddler’s eyes (and stomachs)! Fish counters, meat counters and rows upon rows of marzipan sweets shaped like fruits are both great distractions and learning tools all at once.
For the parents, there’s no shortage of spots to perch and drink a cold glass of cava and a sliver of Serrano ham here (if your toddler’s patience allows)!
La Rambla itself is jam-packed full of entertainment for toddlers. The pedestrianised street is full of performers, people dressed up as cartoon characters, and other spectacles. Just be sure watch your bags and pockets as this area is notorious for pickpockets.
Eat
Many a pre-8am coffee was had at the reliable Cafe 365 chain. A perfectly poured cortado for me and a chocolate-dipped mini croissant for her set the days up right.
On our first night we had dinner at Gourmet Sensi. The menu here is an alternative take on tapas, and includes dishes like grilled razor clams with shrimp sauce, and vegan croquettes with curry mayo. Whilst not immediately the type of place you’d think to take a toddler at 9pm, the staff were so welcoming. They gave Moira lots of drawing materials and were attentive to her every need throughout our meal.
Nearby Cafe Milans is perfect for a post-dinner cocktail. Moira had conked out in her pram by this point and the bar had no issues with us bringing a sleeping toddler into their watering hole while we drank espresso martinis at 11 pm.
For brunch (toddler-friendly or otherwise), Picnic is your friend. With french toast and pancakes adorned with brightly-coloured fruit on the menu, most children’s appetites will go into overdrive. The cafe overlooks the leafy Parc de la Ciutadella, so you can admire the views from the outside tables or through the enormous picture windows inside. The coffee and juices were excellent too.
NAP Antic is your place for pizza. This no-frills pizzeria has lots of outside seating, with plenty of space for little ones to run around. The Neapolitan-style pizzas come out rapidly though so you have something to lure your toddler back to the table with if they’re having too much fun.
The takeaway
If you’re hesitant about taking your toddler on a city break to Barcelona, don’t be! The Catalans love children; waiting staff, hotel staff and shop staff went out of their way to make sure Moira was having just as good a time as we were.
Kids don’t have to signal the end of city breaks; put Barcelona on your list right now.