Puglia, Italy’s southernmost region, is hardly under the radar. Who hasn’t scrolled past a photo of Polignano a Mare's cliff-backed beach, or an arty picture of a conical-roofed Trulli house on their Instagram feed?
Puglia's popularity doesn't make it any more intriguing. Having moved house twice this year, a holiday was very much on the backburner but we were still keen to have a break. Italy isn’t known for its budget holidays, but the south of the country can offer a more affordable getaway. Puglia had been on our bucket list for a number of years, and now seemed as good a time as ever.
Salento, in the 'heel' of Italy's boot, is a slightly less explored part of Puglia (at least by British tourists)! After a bit of research into where to travel affordably and with a toddler, we settled on a two-centre holiday to Otranto and Gallipoli, located on opposite sides of the region.
Otranto
Otranto lies on Salento’s Adriatic coast. Flanked protectively by the walls of a 15th century Aragonese castle, the town juts out into the sea and offers mesmerising views of the water from pretty much every vantage point.
A former Ancient Greek settlement, Otranto’s charming, cobbled streets come into their own at night, when visitors and locals spill out of restaurants and into bars, ice cream shops and local craft stores.
Stay
CDS Basiliani is a modest resort just outside Otranto’s old town. A mere 10-minute-walk from the town centre, the modern complex offers spacious rooms which overlook either the neighbouring woodland, the hotel’s unusually-large infinity pool, or both.
There’s no shortage of sun loungers around the pool so there’s no need to rush down with your towel in the early hours. In the evening, nab a poolside spot to watch the sunset with a spritz from the bar.
CDS Basiliani has an on-site restaurant with a menu that changes with the season. The hotel also boasts a spa where guests can indulge in a treatment after a day of swimming or exploring.
Considering its wealth of amenities and ideal location for exploring both Otranto centre and the surrounding coastline, CDS Basiliani is very reasonably priced. Rates start from 150 euros a night.
Beach
Otranto’s coastline is home to the popular Baia dei Turchi. Known for its shallow, calm, azure waters the beach is perfect for families and sun worshippers alike. Waters are shallow and calm and their colour a bright azure. No wonder Salento beaches are frequently compared to those of the Maldives!
For those seeking comfort, beach clubs replete with restaurants, showers and shops dot the coast. On-a-shoestring travellers can perch their parasols on the public beaches.
Food
Unsurprisingly, seafood is king in Otranto. Orecchiette – a traditional Pugliese pasta is served up with clams in a rich tomato sauce. Grilled octopus and swordfish are also menu staples. L’ora di mezzo on Piazza del Popolo serves up traditional fishy fare and the staff and menu are child friendly.
When it comes to pizza, a trip to Otranto wouldn’t be complete without a visit to La Bella Idrusa. This sprawling pizzeria takes pride of place in Otranto’s port and has a pizza list as long as your arm. It’s rare to see an empty table on the terrace which is perpetually bustling with pizza eaters and waiters thronging their way through the crowds. The queue is worth it!
Gallipoli
Gallipoli is nestled on the other side of the Salento peninsula, on the Ionian coast. Whilst the town is perhaps not quite as famous as its Turkish namesake, it’s no less striking. The old town sits on its own little island, which is connected to the mainland by a 17th century bridge.
Gallipoli oozes old world charm. The buzz of the old town is infectious, though things can get a little hectic in high season! Restaurants line the maze of narrow streets and tables of extended Italian families grace the pavements, intermingling with the throngs doing their nightly passeggiata.
Stay
Felicity Residence is a 10-room hotel conveniently located between Gallipoli's old town and the Baia Verde coast.
The décor is no-frills but the welcome is warm, with staff always on hand (in person or on Whatsapp) and more than willing to share recommendations. A rooftop pool and sun trap is an unexpected treat.
There’s no breakfast on site but a three-euro voucher for the delectable Cioccolatino Gourmand cafe up the road gets you a coffee and a delectable pasticcioto or cornetto.
Beach
Urban beaches don’t come much prettier than Lido Piccolo whose crescent cove is lapped by calm, clear waters.
Loungers here are on the expensive side but there are plenty of spots to lay down your towel elsewhere on the beach. For lunch, slurp spaghetti coated in rich tomato sauce on the restaurant terrace while you gaze into the sea.
Eat
Sit out and savour different cuts of meat straight off the grill whilst watching the world go by. Think enormous T-bone steaks served up with cacio e pepe chips and grilled courgettes, washed down with red wine.
For pizza it’s hard to beat the family-run La Giara Art. Unfussy, uncomplicated and uncompromising on flavours, the Neapolitan pizzeria’s service is fast and cheerful. Try a pizza generously scattered with shellfish or chow down on delectable porchetta on a white base.
Fish is the star of the show at trendy Athena. Think purple prawn tartare, braised langoustines or orecchiette with cuttlefish and chickpeas.
