What to do with six weeks off work during a pandemic whilst also six months pregnant? The list of countries we could visit with valid travel insurance and without having to quarantine on our return was shrinking by the day. But one glimmer of hope remained……. Turkey.
Current circumstances aside, Turkey had actually been on my ‘want to go’ list for a while. A vast chunk of land straddling Europe and Asia seemed an ideal place to spend three weeks travelling around.
As first timers in Turkey, Istanbul seemed the optimal place to start our trip.
Istanbul
Stay
Istanbul is enormous; the sprawling city is made up of a seemingly endless network of different neighbourhoods. From the traditional to the hip, there is no shortage of areas to pitch up during your stay.
The Bosphorus snakes through Turkey’s most populous city, flanked by Europe on the west and Asia on the east. You could even try staying on both sides – how many people can say they visited two continents on a city break?
We spent our first two nights in Fatih – the old city of Istanbul and home to many of the infamous historical sites, as well as our accommodation: Hotel Han Suites. Tucked next to the Little Hagia Sofia, the budget hotel is in an ideal location for visiting attractions such as the Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace. Han Suites lives up to its budget description; rooms, though modern in decor, are compact, with the bed taking up most of the floor space. But with rates starting from £37 per night at the time of writing, there is little room for complaint.
For the next three nights we stayed in Naz City Hotel, near Taksim Square which is considered the heart of modern Istanbul. A sleek, corporate-leaning hotel, Naz City offers a whole suite of facilities, including a gym, spa and restaurant. There is even a free shuttle service from reception up the steep hill to Taksim Square. Rooms and bathrooms are elegantly designed and are extremely spacious, comfortable and well-equipped.
Visit
Situated on opposite sides of a tree-lined square, the Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque appear to be in a face-off. Built in 360 AD, the pink-hued Hagia Sofia is the oldest of the two infamous attractions and was a Christian church for over 1000 years. The Sultan Ahmet mosque, more commonly known as the Blue Mosque, was completed in 1616 and the blue refers to the colour of the interior tiles rather than the outside walls. Famed for their imposing stature and intricate designs, both are a must-visit on any trip to Istanbul. At the time of visiting (September 2020), the blue mosque was undergoing major construction.
The Suleymanie Mosque is another architectural feat which is well worth a visit. Perched on top of the third hill of Istanbul (there are seven in total), the mosque offers an unparalleled view of the majestic city and over the Bosphorus. The Suleymanie mosque’s sheer size is its distinctive feature but the adornment of the cavernous interior doesn’t fail to impress either.
Mere minutes from Suleymanie starts the labyrinthine network of the Grand Bazaar. One of the largest covered markets in the world, it would be easy to spend an entire day exploring this colossal market. From carpets to lanterns to jewellery and Turkish delight, you will easily tick off your holiday gift list here. The Bazaar also sells practical items such as clothes, underwear and shoes. Take a break from shopping with a cay (Turkish tea) and a slice of Börek at one of the many food stalls and cafes.
The Topkapi Palace is now a museum, however during the 15th and 16th centuries it was the administrative centre for the Ottoman Empire. Wander through the old kitchens, ornate libraries and sitting rooms. Especially beautiful is the summer pavilion where the sultans held celebrations following the circumcisions (!) of their sons. Finish your tour with lunch at Karakol, the palace restaurant which overlooks the Bosphorus.
Areas
Karakoy is one of the oldest areas of Istanbul, the waterfront neighbourhood is now home to design hotels, cool bars and restaurants boasting fusion Turkish cuisine.
Travel north up the Bosphorus to luxurious Bebek. Take in the grandeur of the impeccable waterfront villas or grab a beer at new craft brewery Taps.
Fancy a jaunt to Asia? Hop on the 20-minute ferry from Karakoy or Eminonu and explore Kadikoy’s trendy cafes and brunch spots whilst admiring an unobstructed view of the European side of Istanbul.
Eat
Unsurprisingly, there is no shortage of eateries in Istanbul. Whether you’re craving a traditional meze spread, fresh fish or even a juicy burger, you’ll find somewhere to whet your appetite. Try the ‘natural Turkish breakfast’; a spread of eggs, cured meats, cheese and fruit at one of the city’s many brunch spots or grab a fresh pomegranate and orange juice to accompany you on your strolls.
Bohemian district Cihangir’s quaint streets are dotted with trendy cafes. Head to Café Smyrna – a popular student hangout – to devour a modern take on shakshuka complete with simit (a challah-style sweet bread).
Kardesler Lokantasi – an outdoor restaurant in happening Beyoglu serving traditional Turkish fare in generous portions. The pide (Turkish pizza) and Adana kebabs come highly recommended.
If you wander over to the Asian side, be sure to pay a visit to Koco in Kadikoy. The Greek fish restaurant boasts an enormous terrace overlooking the sea and the staff can’t do enough to make your meal as pleasurable as possible. As soon as we sat down, we were served melon with beyaz penir (Turkish feta) and a mouthwatering tomato salad. All this before we had even looked at the menu. A grilled grouper fish was but one of the delectable seafood dishes we devoured.
The Galata bridge which connects Karakoy with Eminonu is home to countless seafood restaurants; if you’re looking for a particular fish, you’ll probably find it here. Although the views over the Bosphorus are pretty spectacular (especially at night), some of the restaurants hike prices for tourists so do your research before you commit!
Drink
Balkon – a buzzy rooftop bar offering stunning sunset views over the city. Popular with students and young professionals.
Snog – a stylish rooftop cocktail bar. Perfect for date night with a difference!
Yer café – a hip and happening bar and café in Kadikoy. Try the cocktails with a twist or a refreshing homemade lemonade.
Moda Aile Cay Bahcesi, Kadikoy – watch the sun set over the European side whilst sipping on cay in this magical garden bar.
